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information you need when you are sewing your own curtains



Eyelet curtains can be bought as a continuous curtain in Spotlight,

you cut it to the width you need and put in the side and bottom hems, allow an even amount of grommets so that the ends return back to the wall.

You can also buy eyelets that are fully finished.




I have been meaning to write on this subject for a while.


Even though I am called Nu Style Curtains I would not recommend

changing the style of any curtain.


The only exception was when a lady wanted a pencil pleat curtain made into a curtain with pinch pleats, the fabric was very special and sentimental to her.

The reason it worked out is because there was enough width and length to play with.


It is important to get the curtain fullness right, aim for twice the width of the track when the curtain is finished.


The eyelet can be around 1.6-1.8 times the width of the track.


Start with the width of the window, then add the stack backs, returns, overlaps (if you have an corded track) and add up to another 20cm for extra, I usually allow 7cm per side hem.

Then double this measurement.

This info is for the Pinch, Inverted and Pencil pleats,

the eyelet only needs the stack back and side hems included.


Fabrics in the stores come in a 140cm width


For the length you can choose it to be a finished length of 221cm for pinch/ inverted/Pencil pleats, which suits an average height ceiling, this is a standard length if you are buying ready made curtains.

The eyelet standard length is 223cm.

The S Wave curtains need alterations, you can bring it up to the ceiling.


I allow 250cm per drop for a standard length curtain of 221cm,

10 cm is for the heading and 18cm for a double hem.


Sewing triple weave fabrics is very difficult for a beginner, the fabric moves around a lot, if I sew them I allow extra in the length so there is enough to square it up and it is a good idea to use plenty of pins.

Stick to block out fabrics, which are more stable to work with.


Happy sewing :)











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